DMS Skincare Can Mimic Lipid Structure!

What is Derma Membrane Structure (DMS)? 

DMS is a technology used in skincare that creates topical creams with a lamellar structure that mimics the natural lipid barrier of the skin to promote repair. What makes this topical cream different from other skin emulsifiers, is that it contains physiological lipids like ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. These 3 ingredients resemble the natural lipids found in the the skins outermost epidermis layer (stratum corneum) (Schild et al., 2024; Berdyshev, 2024).

How does DMS work on a Physiological Level?  

In class we discussed how the plasma membrane is a single lipid bilayer that separates the intracellular fluid (ICF) of the cell from the extracellular fluid (ECF). The plasma membrane determines what comes in and out of the the cell via physiological mechanisms like passive transport and osmosis. However, the skin's barrier is not equivalent to a single plasma membrane, but instead, a more complex barrier, made up of dead, protein filled cells (corneocytes) embedded into multi-layered sheets of intercellular lipids (Berdyshev, 2024). 

Figure 1 below compares the outermost layer of the skin in a "young/healthy skin" state compared to an "aged/dry skin" state. The young/healthy skin shows tightly packed alternating lipid and water layers, with high concentrations of ceramide, fatty acids, and cholesterol. Skin in this condition will successfully block allergens, pollutants, bacteria and viruses from penetrating its outer layer. The aged/dry skin has a looser lamellar arrangement due to deficiency in structural lipids like ceramides. Skin in this condition, are more susceptible to water loss indicated by the light blue arrow, as well as pollutants and bacteria penetrating its barrier (yumiimage, n.d.).

Figure 1: Healthy Skin vs Damaged Skin Barrier

Note. Adapted from Ceramide in skin and skin barrier illustration comparing between young/healthy skin and aged/dry skin. Simple version, by yumiimage, n.d., Adobe Stock (File #538469352). Used under Standard License.

In the context of passive transport, I mentioned that the cream has a lamellar structure. A lamellar structure is a general term used for "a layered arrangement". The DMS cream layered arrangement has a physiological lipid ratio of 1:1:1 (ceramides: cholesterol: free fatty acids).  Since this structure biologically mimics the multi-lamellar lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, the lipids in the cream are able to easily integrate within the spaces between corneocytes (Nisbet et al., 2019; Kahraman et al., 2019).

This integration results in the enhancement of the skin barrier because the DMS lipids in the cream are able to fill the "gaps" and protect the skin

In the context of osmosis, a healthy skin barrier is selectively permeable. This selective permeability allows small nonpolar substances such as oxygen (O2) and carbon dioxide (CO2) to pass via simple diffusion, while keeping water levels at equilibrium.  

If the skins barrier is damaged, this can lead to excessive water loss. DMS creams reinforce this barrier which protects against abnormal water loss (Nisbet et al., 2019; Kahraman et al., 2019). This is important for protecting the living cells in the epidermis (keratinocytes) from osmotic stress and dehydration. 

Overall, DMS technology great for providing the skin barrier with the correct structure and components to function like a healthy plasma membrane and promote long-term skin rejuvenation (Nisbet et al., 2019).

References

Schild, J., Kalvodová, A., Zbytovská, J., Farwick, M., & Pyko, C. (2024). The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skincare applications. International journal of cosmetic science, 46(4), 526–543. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12972

Berdyshev E. (2024). Skin Lipid Barrier: Structure, Function and Metabolism. Allergy, asthma & immunology research, 16(5), 445–461. https://doi.org/10.4168/aair.2024.16.5.445

Kahraman, E., Kaykın, M., Şahin Bektay, H., & Güngör, S. (2019). Recent Advances on Topical Application of Ceramides to Restore Barrier Function of Skin. Cosmetics, 6(3), 52. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6030052

Nisbet, S., Mahalingam, H., Gfeller, C. F., Biggs, E., Lucas, S., Thompson, M., Cargill, M. R., Moore, D., & Bielfeldt, S. (2019). Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies. International journal of cosmetic science, 41(1), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12499

yumiimage. (n.d.). Ceramide in skin and skin barrier illustration comparing between young/healthy skin and aged/dry skin. Simple version [Illustration]. Adobe Stock. https://stock.adobe.com/images/ceramide-in-skin-and-skin-barrier-illustration-comparing-between-young-healthy-skin-and-aged-dry-skin-simple-version/538469352